8 Designers to Know from the SPHERE Paris Fashion Week Showroom SS27

Founded in 2016 by Luca Lin, a designer who grew up in Italy with a Chinese family. He turns childhood memories into collections built around the idea of life's 'first act', mixing tailoring with hand-painted silk in sculptural shapes. A finalist for the International Woolmark Prize 2025 and a semi-finalist for the LVMH Prize 2026. A name already on the official Milan Fashion Week calendar, but this year back in Paris as a special guest, through a partnership between SPHERE and Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.

Another look from the latest runway: materials colliding in that raw-meets-precious way that is the brand's signature.

Jude Ferrari, a Central Saint Martins graduate, founded the brand in Paris in 2023 and describes it as a 'Cronut': a crossover between the elegance of a Parisian croissant and the sweet mischief of a glitter donut. Upcycling and deadstock fabric (leftover stock from factories or other brands) run through every collection. Bold colours, a cheeky tone, and no interest in following the old rules.

Léa Mathonière Fallot, a graduate of École Duperré and the Institut Français de la Mode, reads ready-to-wear through knitwear she wants to feel like a 'second skin'. She mixes traditional knitting with experimental techniques such as 3D printing, sublimation and pigment spraying, ending up with a one-of-a-kind trompe-l'oeil texture (a trick of the eye that looks like a different material). She recently won the AMI x IFM 2025 award.

Born in Kazakhstan and raised in the US, she studied bioscience before switching to launch her own label in 2022. Her first collection debuted in New York. She was an LVMH Prize semi-finalist and a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist in 2025, and opened her first store in SoHo the same year. Her work stands out for sculpted silhouettes, painstakingly tailored corsets, and materials chosen for their ability to hold a shape.

Chen Xu graduated from ESMOD Paris in 2016 and started at Y/Project alongside Glenn Martens (Glenn now runs both Maison Margiela and Diesel, which makes the connection even more interesting) before striking out to found RIZ POLI in Paris in 2022. Inspired by Pablo Neruda's poem 'Ode to Bread', she blends contemporary femininity with club culture and social poetry. Every collection is a slice of real life told through clothes.

Sebastian A. de Ruffray, a Chilean designer, founded the brand in Paris in 2019. He plays with upcycling by taking clothes apart and putting them back together, sticking to handmade techniques and turning old materials into one-of-a-kind pieces. Local production and sustainability are the backbone of the brand.

Yonathan Carmel named the brand after his own ancestors and founded it in 2021, with craftsmanship and tailoring at its core. On the Official Calendar of Paris Fashion Week since September 2024 and an LVMH Prize semi-finalist in 2024. A brand that believes authenticity and the marks of time are what real beauty looks like.

A Central Saint Martins graduate who worked at Louis Vuitton and Cacharel before launching her own label in Paris in 2024. A finalist in the Gucci Design Competition by SHOWstudio in 2021, and awarded the 'Fabriqué à Paris' label in 2025. Inspired by Gaston Bachelard's philosophy of water and imagination, the flowers in her work are not just prints but living presences, erasing the line between body, clothing and landscape.

Victor Brunstein named the brand after his grandmother and founded it in 2020 with the support of the Dover Street Market Paris incubator. He was a design assistant at Jean Paul Gaultier from 2018 to 2020 and an LVMH Prize semi-finalist in 2022. A former dancer who treats each collection as a performance, full of inspiration from the friends and muses around him.