Thai food already has plenty of flavor layers, but this restaurant stacks layer on layer even further. Benjarong Thai Restaurant is located at Baan Dusit Thani, a pre-WWII building turned into a restaurant, with Head Chef Pum, Sukanya Ngamsrikham. The sour curry with pork-stuffed squid (650) is grilled before being made into the curry, giving it a smoky note that's incredibly delicious. Crispy pork four ways (420) is served with black, green, and white pepper plus mala chili.

The green curry with braised beef (1,290) uses beef ribs sous vide for 72 hours, incredibly tender. Stir-fried three shellfish with stuffed chilies (650) is springy and rich. Mango sticky rice topped with coconut milk shaved into ice crystals using liquid nitrogen is incredibly good. There's a set menu for 2 at 1,400++ per person, including an amuse bouche of fried cowslip creeper flower salad, cold Khmer tom yum, mangosteen and coconut salad, and old-recipe venison satay — a great spot for entertaining guests, with private rooms available.